We met Mike and Grady back before winter set in last year; one of those incidental encounters that have come to epitomize the human evolution of Table on Ten. Grady was participating in a food safety course alongside us in Delhi; conversation ripened over the latex gloves and the tale of their small-scale local butcher shop emerged. Long-pastured, grass-fed, dry-aged meat, sourced, butchered and processed right here in Delaware County. Two people cheerfully, determinedly plying an old-fashioned trade, focussed on excellence of provenance, husbandry, practice and quality. And they weren’t in Tuscany, Shropshire or Brooklyn. Nope: our very own Roxbury NY. We made a date and took the short hop across Roses’ Brook, to forage duck breasts from their refrigerator and cool our heels with them over roundels of freshly-made blood sausage.
Grady swung by Bloomville shortly thereafter, her butcher’s pockets replete with snappy, all-beef, Delaware County hot dogs; perfect serendipity, as the winter chill had been calling for a Table on Ten twist on a hearty classic. The Table Dog was born: he bounded through the door, circled the place twice, shook his wet coat, sniffed everybody in all the wrong places then settled by the stove, twitching, dreaming of rabbits. He was 100% grass-fed beef, resting in an organic bun with caramelized onions and Table-made, River Cottage adapted ketchup. He spooned a fistful of Burnett Farms greens. And he came with beans too; baked long and low through nights of Françoise Hardy and Campari. Ah, the nostalgia. They grow up so fast!
Then there was the near-legendary Mike Solyn Blood Sausage workshop at Table on Ten. Scenes from la Terreur. A dozen Table regulars, bathed in blood, giddily stuffing rice and gore into sausage casings, like kids cut loose in an operating theatre. In her eagerness to attend Jeanette Bronée crashed her Subaru into a tree, but still went home blood-spattered with her own, deep burgundy hand-hewn sausage.
Well, it’s been a while. Summer has seen Mike and Grady’s food truck ratcheting up the miles between Jefferson, Fulton Stall Market in New York and Empire State Plaza in Albany, plying a wider audience with meat of prodigious quality.
But they are coming to us on Sunday.
Sunday 28th. 3 o’clock in the afternoon. The moment the doors shut on the regular menu we’ll be shifting our attention to the garden, where Mike and Grady’s truck will be purring like a Maine Coon. Call it: late lunch, afternoon snack, rustic high tea or Early Bird Special. There’ll be beer and wine and all the meaty cargo Farm2Door have on board: the cooked stuff to stay or go, the uncooked to take home and perform your own magic with. We’ll go till 7 or so. If you’re heading back to the city, come eat something good before you go, fuel yourself for the journey. Or make it (another) reason to stay up (another) night. The roads are so quiet in the early morning; like clipclopping on a horse and buggy through Tess of the D’Urbervilles. And if you’re here full-time; what better dinner? There’s even whispers of a bespoke Table Burger. Here’s the current skinny:
HOT DOGS – 100% grass-fed beef from Sweet Tree Farm (Carlisle). Snappy or skinless, no nitrates, phosphates. Smoked over local hard wood, made fresh by Farm2Door every week.
BURGER – 100% grass-fed beef from Sweet Tree Farm (Carlisle). Dry-aged for 50 days. A juicy 70/30 lean/fat grind.
FRIES – twice fried for a tender interior and crispy finish.
SALAD – organic greens from Burnett Farms (Bovina) with radish and carrot. Add a maple pickled egg or Harpersfield Cheese. Balsamic or bacon vinaigrette.
MAPLE DONUT HOLES – all local ingredients, fried in heritage lard from Horton Hill Farm (Jefferson). Dusted with maple sugar from Buck’s Maple Farm (Jefferson).
lettuce, tomato, onion
maple pickled egg
maple pickled jalapenos
house hot sauce (papaya, mango, habanero)
house smoked bacon
BEER brewed in New York
WINE by Zev Rovine